Do-it-yourself rabbit house at home, making a rabbit house

House for rabbits out of a box

Of course, a home for pets made from a cardboard box can hardly be called durable. However, this is a great option if you need a temporary home. In addition, some residents prefer to constantly let the rabbit walk around the apartment, and the pet uses the cage only as a sleeping place and toilet, so it does not necessarily spend money on an expensive structure.

It is necessary to select a box according to the size of the rabbit. If the animal is large, then you can connect two boxes

During the work we will need the following materials and devices:

• cardboard boxes - 2 pieces (35 centimeters high and 45 centimeters long);
• compass;
• stationery knife or scissors;
• adhesive tape;
• simple pencil.

Table No. 1. Instructions for making a house for a rabbit from a box.

Note! If desired, you can decorate the structure with a special film with an adhesive base. This will give the cardboard dwelling a finished look, but it is not necessary.

As a result of such manipulations, it was possible to obtain a spacious house for one rabbit with two central openings and one side one.

Materials

The amount of material is calculated based on the number of buildings and drawing calculations. For the design you need:

• Beams, slats, planed boards, plywood;
• Mesh for walls, partitions, floors;
• For the roof - roofing felt, tin, slate;
• Latches, door hinges, portable handles;
• Self-tapping screws, nails.

Standard carpentry tools are suitable. If more complex work is involved, involving welding and cutting, then it is better to seek help from knowledgeable people.

• Types, applications and characteristics of paving slabs
• Is a land plot required to be inspected before purchasing it?
• What models of corner sofas exist: how to quickly navigate through the variety of models and colors

Types of cells and their sizes

On a farm to maintain a population of rabbits, various cages are required, intended for certain categories of animals:

• adults;
• young animals;
• representatives of giant breeds;
• females with offspring.

When planning the construction of a home for animals, as well as their resettlement, we start from the following figures: 0.7 m2 of space is usually allocated for an adult rabbit, and 0.25 m2 for young animals per individual.

For adults

Optimal cages for medium-sized rabbits should have a depth of 55-75 cm, a height of 45-60 cm and a length of at least 100 cm. Dimensions of the standard version: 120 × 75 × 45 cm (DHA). When keeping adult animals, it is advisable to use block structures divided into two compartments using a mesh. If mating is necessary, the partition is removed, combining the sections together.

Standard design of an individual two-section dwelling for medium-sized adults

In order to save space, cells are often arranged in blocks of 2-3 tiers.

Each room should have a designated area for sleeping, eating and walking. A small place for rest is required: approximately 30x60x50 cm. To zone the space, plywood partitions with holes located at a height of about 15 cm from the floor are usually used.

For young animals

Rabbits are separated from their mother at the age of 6-7 weeks and kept together in groups of 10-20 animals. When designing a home, the following dimensions are adhered to: 300 × 100 × 50 cm. The floor can be made either solid, mesh or slatted. The first option is safer from the point of view of the health of rabbits, because some individuals are susceptible to the development of pododermatitis, and the coating of slats or mesh contributes to the occurrence of the disease. However, houses with such a bottom are easier to keep clean, as they become dirty more slowly.

In winter, the floor is insulated with a bedding of straw and hay.

Convenient design for group placement of young animals with a common walking area

In some farms, special cages for young animals are not provided, and cubs weaned from their mother are immediately placed in housing for adult animals. With this option, it is necessary to calculate how many heads can be placed in one room to make the animals comfortable.

For giant rabbits

Owners of giants will need significantly more building materials, because adult individuals can reach 70 cm in length and weigh more than 10 kg . The optimal cage dimensions for rabbits of giant varieties are: height of at least 65 cm, length - 150 cm, depth - 75 cm. If possible, it is better to increase the above parameters.

Young animals can be kept in group cages with an area of ​​at least 1.2 m2. When constructing the structure, you should take into account the considerable weight of the giants and pay special attention to strengthening the floor, for example, making it from thicker galvanized mesh. To prevent sagging, a sheathing is made of bars under the floor, which are placed at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Experienced rabbit breeders recommend keeping giants in dwellings with a solid floor. However, cleaning in such rooms will have to be done much more often.

Individual room with a solid bottom for a giant rabbit

For a female with cubs

Some farmers believe that a special queen cell for a female with offspring is necessary exclusively in the cold season, while in the summer a regular cage is sufficient. However, this opinion is wrong. In an open room, partitioned only with a mesh, the female rabbit feels unprotected, which can negatively affect the feeding process and the health of her offspring. Therefore, it is imperative to equip your home with a closed, insulated place for the nest, and also leave enough space for walking.

A queen cell, closed with solid walls, is placed in the home for the female rabbit and her offspring.

The frame is made of strong beams, the back and side walls are made of plywood. The space is immediately divided into two parts - a large one intended for walking and a small one for a nest. Each of them is closed with a separate door: mesh (large compartment) or solid wood (nesting part). All walls, floors and ceilings must be double, with a layer of foam or straw for additional heat and sound insulation. The roof is made of slate.

You can learn more about the design and construction of a queen cell from the article on our website.

Zolotukhin cell

Another inventor who made a huge contribution to the development of rabbit breeding is farmer Nikolai Zolotukhin.
He is the author of the method of breeding animals on a solid floor in a multi-tiered cage. In each compartment in the back, which is most often a latrine for rabbits, there is a mesh strip with a strip of 10-20 cm. Thanks to this, you can clean the cage once every few days or even weeks.

On a rigid base, rabbits feel much more confident and comfortable than on a mesh or slatted base. They gain weight quickly and get little sick. Anyone can make a Zolotukhin cage. The floor is made of flat slate. It is quite warm, durable and moisture resistant. There is no queen cell as such - before breeding, a board and a bedding of hay are placed inside. The mother rabbit makes her own nest and raises her young there.

Maintaining Zolotukhin’s mini-farm is quick and easy. The feeder, suspended from the door, can be easily turned over and cleaned thanks to the hinged mount. The floors are swept with a brush or broom. For drinking, you can use an inverted plastic bottle with a cap with a nipple inserted into it.

Construction requires inexpensive materials - boards, slate, galvanized mesh, plywood, OSB.

Making a house for a rabbit with your own hands

To make keeping a decorative rabbit at home comfortable for your pet, let’s look at how to make a house out of cardboard and wood.

Construction out of a box

This design has a short service life and is not suitable for permanent use. Typically, temporary housing is made from cardboard.

To create a house, you need to take a box measuring 600x300x400 mm. For larger individuals, you can connect 2 boxes so that the pet has room to roam.

To make the design you will need:

1. 2 cardboard boxes 30 cm high and 50 cm long;
2. pencil;
3. scotch;
4. scissors;
5. compass.

Interesting to know! Rabbits' ears are approximately 25 cm long. But in 2003, a record holder with an ear length of 79 cm was entered into the Guinness Book of Records. Such an animal lived in America, in the state of Kansas.

Step-by-step instructions for making a rabbit house:

1. You need to take one box, determine the place where the entrance for the pet will be, using a compass and pencil, draw a semicircle - the border for the future entrance/exit. If you do not cut out the completely outlined borders with scissors, you will end up with a threshold at the bottom.
2. The same holes must be cut on 2 more sides, leaving only the back wall intact. The top of the structure must be taped with tape so that the structure is stable and does not wobble.
3. The same manipulations must be done with the second box. It is important to take into account that the internal boundaries coincide.
4. After all the preparatory work has been done, it is recommended to connect the 2 boxes together and glue them with tape to create a solid house.
5. To somehow diversify the unsightly brown appearance of the structure, you can cover the house with wallpaper where a pet rabbit lives, or paint it with gouache.

The house made from boxes is an oblong dwelling with 2 central entrances and 1 side entrance. You can install a feeder and drinking bowl inside the structure. It is advisable to place a waterproof mat or hay at the bottom.

Containers for females

The rabbit's house, or queen cell, will be slightly different from a regular rabbitry. Females and their offspring must be kept separately.

Some people mistakenly believe that females do not need separate apartments with special furnishings to reproduce offspring. However, in an open cage, the rabbit will be constantly exposed to stress due to sharp sounds and smells and will not be able to fully perform maternal duties. In addition, babies are born completely unadapted to life: blind, deaf and naked. In the first few days, baby rabbits need especially careful heating and a stable supply of mother's milk, which may never appear if the animal is constantly under stress.

According to the drawings, a house for a rabbit is no different from the simplest single cage. To keep female rabbits with their offspring in winter, the containers are insulated and insulated. Foam sheets or mineral wool are used as insulation, and the top is sheathed with an additional layer of wood.

House for a rabbit

The internal arrangement of the box for the female rabbit will differ in the presence of a queen cell in it. It is another small container. It is very important that its dimensions are not too large, otherwise the female, deciding that this is another cage, will defecate there. Too small an area of ​​the queen cell will not allow the female to fully cover the nest with wool and equip it for the birth of the babies. The sizes are selected in accordance with the characteristics of the rabbit breeds.

It is important to remember that first-born females may forget to line the nest with fur, becoming confused. To do this, you need to make the cage in such a way that you can independently put hay and cotton wool into the nest. To prevent the wooden covering on the floor from rotting by reacting with the waste products of the baby rabbits, it must be covered with galvanized sheets. But in this case, you will need to make a flooring of straw of at least 20 cm, otherwise in cold weather the droppings will simply freeze on the cold floor.

You should not build a rabbitry for females from freshly cut trees with a pungent odor: the woody aroma can scare away the female, and she will not use the nest for its intended purpose, in the worst case, she may even abandon rabbits altogether. If you are going to breed rabbits for sale, then this design is an ideal option for the farm. It will allow you to reproduce year-round.

Construction of a house for a rabbit

A rabbit's home is one of the most important aspects in breeding these cute creatures. Keeping eared cats at home is quite a troublesome task. By nature, animals do not have good immunity, so every little detail in their care and diet is very important.

DIY rabbit house

Houses for rabbits should be as comfortable as possible and create the appearance of natural living conditions.

Step-by-step construction of a rabbitry

The first step is to select the necessary drawing of the rabbitry. In this case, we recommend using the help of thematic Internet resources.

To create a convenient rabbitry for your garden, use high-quality wooden blocks. Based on the drawing, you begin to make a standard foundation. It is made from wood by constructing a durable floor.

Then start attaching the wood pieces vertically to the floor using self-tapping screws. To do everything right, use additional Internet sources.

Once the frame is made, it is connected to the roof and floor.

Then we insulate the walls with construction foam, and then we cover everything with wood.

Having previously left space for the door, we begin to install the ready-made mesh door. You can purchase it in many specialized stores.

Housing requirements for rabbits

Regardless of what kind of rabbit you are preparing a house for (a dwarf decorative or an ordinary large one), there are a number of general points that should definitely be taken into account when developing the design.

First of all, these include:

1. The optimal size of the structure is so that the animal can freely fit in it and even straighten up to its full height (if there is no room for such a structure, you will have to build a smaller house, but with the condition of regular walking of the pet).
2. Calculation of design parameters “for growth”. For a baby rabbit, the size of his house should be at least 4 times larger than its actual parameters, of course, if you do not want to remodel the home in the future. Standard shelter dimensions for representatives of dwarf breeds: 140*80*50 (L/W/H).
3. Selection of quality materials. Any rabbits are very sensitive to toxic substances, so when choosing raw materials it is better to give preference to clean, unvarnished wood.
4. Arranging a mesh floor (necessarily with small cells) or installing a special tray for excrement, covered with a hard mat (its corners should be bent in advance so that the animal does not injure itself).
5. The height of the structure: either for the full height of the animal (its height is measured in a standing position), or taking into account the number of tiers (for two-story structures, the height of each floor can be reduced by 40 cm).
6. A place to install feeders and drinkers (it is important that they can be fixed well and not tip over).

Important! You should not handle animals immediately after eating. After just 5-10 minutes, all the food can come out in the form of excrement, which will stain not only clothes, but also carpet or furniture (for this reason, animals are not allowed to walk around the apartment at this time).

What is a shelter made of?

Decorative breeds are not considered rodents, but lagomorphs, but they love to chew, so they are kept in special cages and their free movement around the house is limited.

To prevent unfavorable instincts from appearing:

• should be fed properly
• calculate a diet with a full supply of essential vitamins and minerals
• Keep salt in a separate feeder at all times

Animals prefer the branches of fruit trees. It is better to exclude human food from the menu and serve specialized mixtures with fruits and high-quality cereals.

The house will also have to be treated with care, make it, if according to the minimum dimensions, then 130 by 80 cm and a height of 70 cm. He will feel normal in this shelter, not try to leave quickly due to excessive cramping, he will be able to climb there in full height.

Wooden house

The frame of the walls and the roof are made of wood, since synthetic fumes have a bad effect on the body; the plastic floor will be covered with natural bedding. If the owner has covered it with fine mesh, it is still hidden under a hard covering. To avoid deformations after assembling the house, it is better to put your project on the drawing, indicate the dimensions of the elements, then it will be easier to cut the parts.

On the construction diagram you will have to mark out all the nuances by location:

• doors
• ladder
• drinking bowls
• feeders
• trays
• gaming devices

For the convenience of cleaning activities, the roofing part is made mobile; its removability will allow you to clean out dirt at any time.

Any suitable material at hand is suitable for general construction:

• wooden boards
• tin sheets
• plywood
• Chipboard
• net

To be prepared:

• set of nails
• self-tapping screws
• door hinges
• wooden slats
• tools in the form of an ordinary hammer, saw, scissors for cutting metal

As soon as the pet finds itself in a convenient place for its existence, at first it treats both people and objects with distrust for some time, but once it gets used to it, it becomes sociable, happily uses all objects for their intended purpose, eats, drinks, and plays.

House for a rabbit in an apartment

The structure in the apartment should be built from wood. A house must be beautiful to make it a pleasure to live in.

The cage should not be placed in places with drafts; location next to a radiator in winter will create excessive stuffiness

DIY rabbit house - compact design. Often apartments have little space, so a two-tier wooden house is a more popular option. Material costs will remain almost unchanged, but the drawings will have to be redrawn. A staircase to the second floor, compartments and a floor will be required.

Roofs are not installed in such a house due to the stable temperature in the apartment (18-20°). There are structures without pallets.

Construction in step-by-step recommendations

DIY house
If the entire construction of the house is divided into successive steps, the construction will involve the following procedure:

• floor production - cut from sheets or fasten boards to form a rectangle 120 by 70 cm
• installation of walls from 4 parts 70 by 60 cm and 120 by 60 cm
• marking window and door openings, they need to be cut out
• the walls are attached to each other and the floor
• the door is first assembled from a strip cut to size, then covered with mesh and installed in the opening with
• awnings and hooks
• start roofing work, the roof can look like a plane or have slopes.

The life of rabbits

Before you start building a house for rabbits, you need to learn about living conditions and rules for caring for furry animals. With proper care, rabbits live about 5-10 years and love to chew on everything. The long-eared tree can damage a simple tree. The material must not be coated with toxic varnish.

A warm skin does not always protect pets from unstable temperatures and weather conditions. The structure should not be placed in a draft or near radiators in the apartment, such conditions affect the condition of the animals. The size of the cage should correspond to the size of the eared ones.

What should a rabbitry be like?

In order for rabbits to feel normal, not get sick, grow well and reproduce quickly, they need to create a certain atmosphere. They are demanding of living conditions and often get sick in poor conditions. To prevent this from happening, they need the following conditions:

The optimal temperature is 14-16°C. The temperature in the rabbitry is determined in a place away from heating devices, walls, windows and doors. Both overheating and hypothermia have a negative effect. When the temperature drops, more feed is required, which is unprofitable. But a gradual rise or fall in temperature is not as destructive as sudden changes. From all this it follows that it is necessary to build an insulated rabbitry, with the possibility of heating and air conditioning

The most justified are rabbit hutches built using frame technology, with mineral wool insulation (thickness is calculated depending on the region). No less attention should be paid to the insulation of the floor and ceiling. The roofing material may not be insulated, it must provide protection from moisture

In this case, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the ceiling. The cheapest way is to pour a layer of expanded clay onto the ceiling, apply a layer of clay mixed with straw on top, and then you can even throw fallen leaves onto the dried clay for additional thermal insulation.

Rabbits are demanding of air humidity - it must be maintained at 60-75%. Drafts have a negative effect on the health of rabbits. This is another argument in favor of frame buildings - if constructed correctly, there should be no drafts. However, the rabbitry must have ventilation because they need fresh air and the gases that come from the rabbits' urine and feces must be removed. But the air speed should not be more than 0.3 m/s. Usually, an inlet opening is made, covered by a movable grille at floor level in one corner of the rabbitry, and an exhaust pipe under the ceiling in the other. You can install a damper in the exhaust pipe. Using a movable grille and a damper, you can regulate the speed of air movement in the rabbitry depending on weather conditions. If natural ventilation is not enough, fans with the ability to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades are installed in the exhaust or supply pipe (there should be several modes). The second factor that affects the state of the atmosphere in a rabbitry is the regularity of cleaning and the design of the cages. About the cells - a little lower, and here - about cleaning. It should be regular - at least 2-3 times a week. The main indicator is the presence or absence of a strong odor. In order for less ammonia to be released, it is necessary to organize the collection of stool so that urine is separated from feces. If the collection goes into trays under the cages, they have a slope and a trench through which the urine is drained into a separate container. If waste is collected through gutters into a pit (with large numbers of rabbits), the ditches must be made so that urine leaks into a lower gutter separated by a mesh. This is a rather difficult task, since one part is separated from the other using a mesh, and it often gets clogged. To keep everything in working order, you have to clean it often.

The rate of weight gain and fur density are also affected by the illumination of the rabbitry and the length of daylight hours. Rabbits are most active at dusk and at night. Bright lighting is undesirable for them. A sufficient level of illumination is 50-70 lux for adults, 25-30 lux for fattening young animals. At the same time, the duration of daylight hours is 16-18 hours, so in winter lighting is required, but dim. To make the lighting more comfortable when servicing the rabbitry, install several additional light bulbs above the cages, but connect them to the second switch (or to the second key). Another option is to install a brightness control (dimmer). It is installed instead of a regular switch and allows you to change the illumination by turning the control knob.

Home care and cleaning

In order for the house you created with your own hands to remain in its original form longer, and for the animals to be healthy and not get sick, you will have to do cleaning every day, removing leftover food, feces and soiled hay from the floor (if it is used as bedding or simply fell out of the hay barn and was trampled on by animals). Drinkers and feeders can be washed once a day, and the filler in the tray can be changed once every few days. Remains of dried urine on the floor and walls of the house can be removed using a vinegar solution (just soak a soft cloth in this solution and walk over all surfaces).

General cleaning of a rabbit's home is usually done once a week. It involves a more thorough cleaning of all surfaces, possibly using a hot iodine or chlorine solution. The rug must be removed from the floor, washed and dried, then the feeder, drinker and hay box must be removed and boiled. Toys that can either be boiled or treated with a pet-safe disinfectant solution also deserve special attention.

House care

Rabbits are quite capricious in their maintenance and are very sensitive to cleanliness in their home. Therefore, the breeder must:

• Clean the tray from manure. Ammonia fumes have a negative impact on animal health.
• Remove remaining grains, vegetables and hay from the bottom of the house daily. Wash the rug or replace it with a new one.
• Change the bedding in your home. This must be done every day, as otherwise the risk of animal illness increases due to high humidity.
• Wash the feeders thoroughly before feeding again, as rabbits are characterized by increased sensitivity of the gastrointestinal tract. Disinfection will be especially effective if you boil the water bowl, feeder and hay barn.
• Change water in drinking bowls regularly. This should be done at least 3 times a day.
• Use a vinegar solution to clean up dried urine.
• Ventilate the rabbitry regularly.
• Wash and dry toys from a decorative rabbit.
• Conduct a general cleaning of the rabbitry with complete disinfection every six months. Synthetic solutions cannot be used for this.

You can make a house for rabbits at home without the help of specialists. The most difficult part in this process is calculating from drawings and drawing sketches. A properly equipped home will be the key to good animal immunity. It is important to design the house so that the owner can freely carry out all the necessary cleaning and disinfection procedures in it.

House for a rabbit, how best to place it indoors

There are many options for housing your rabbit indoors, kennels, rabbit houses, cages and others. We will discuss each of them below.

Free living in an apartment

If you decide to provide the entire apartment for your decorative rabbit to live in, then you need to put a toilet, a box with hay, and a plastic mat on which you need to place a bowl of food and water in one of the rooms. They will come and eat, drink or go to the toilet when they need to. If you are going to leave them alone in the house, then provide them with cardboard boxes for entertainment.

Aviary

A great option is to install an enclosure in the corner of the room for your rabbit. An enclosure can be purchased at many pet stores or you can make it yourself.

Enclosures are large enough to accommodate everything a rabbit needs and allow them to move freely.

If you are concerned about your flooring or carpet, you can place a plastic mat, piece of linoleum, or old carpet in the enclosure. (Make sure your rabbit does not eat these materials because it can cause constipation. If the edges of the mat are placed outside the enclosure, the animal will not be able to chew on it.) Enclosures usually do not have a roof, so make sure you buy one of this size so your rabbit can jump over it. Usually this height is about 80-100 cm.

Enclosures are useful if you intend to eventually keep a free-ranging animal in your home. Limiting your rabbit's space at the beginning will allow him/her to get used to the layout of the litter box and feeders. By gradually increasing the space, your rabbit will not be overwhelmed by the large area. This helps prevent accidents and reduce stress.

DIY cage

If you have limited space, then you can build a multi-story cage for your pet. You can use wood, metal, and other materials to build a multi-story cage. (See photo gallery of modern and stylish DIY cage ideas) One thing to note is that you should not build a rabbit fencing out of plastic chicken mesh because rabbits may chew on it and accidentally swallow it. Also, if you decide to use metal mesh, the mesh should be large enough so that the rabbit cannot stick its head between the bars. Otherwise, your rabbit may become injured or suffocate himself. (Step-by-step instructions on how to build your own rabbit house.)

Rabbit cages

Of all the housing options, rabbit hutches provide the least amount of space for your rabbit. However, if you decide to house your rabbit in a large cage, you must ensure that the rabbit has plenty of time outside the cage - at least a few hours a day. Options for cages are varied, but you need to know a few rules.

The cages must be large enough to accommodate the rabbit. The bigger, the better! There should be room for your rabbit to move around and lie down, as well as space for food, water, litter box, and toys. Never use glass aquariums as they are not large enough and do not have proper air circulation. It's also best to have a cage with a door on the side so your rabbit can come and go on his own.

Some owners prefer cages with wire bottoms because they can place bedding underneath. This is a good option, but in order for the rabbit to stand/lay down, you will need to place a piece of wood or cardboard on top. When standing on a grid, a decorative rabbit may experience discomfort.

There are many different housing options that you can consider for your rabbit. Rabbits need a place where they feel safe, as well as a place to exercise. The best option will depend on your living conditions. But remember, rabbits are very social creatures, so choose a place in your home that won't make your rabbit feel lonely and abandoned.

Useful tips for keeping rabbits

Decorative rabbits are quite capricious creatures, which in their pampering are superior to even their larger relatives. They respond painfully to any changes in the microclimate and are very sensitive to low-quality food, therefore, in addition to home improvement, it is also worth knowing about the rules for caring for these fluffies. Here are some of the most common recommendations:

1. Place the cage with the animal only in a room with a constant air temperature within +18...+22 °C and a complete absence of drafts.
2. Make sure that other pets (especially cats and dogs), as well as small children, do not have access to your long-eared pet, because they can not only stress him out, but also cause physical harm.
3. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears or the withers: this causes significant discomfort and can even frighten him.
4. Always maintain the temperature within optimal limits, avoiding overheating of animals (this harms them even more than lower temperatures). As a last resort, if there is no other suitable place in the room, and the sun's rays fall on the cage, cover it with a damp towel and regularly wipe the animal's ears with a clean, cold, damp cloth (there should always be drinking bowls with cold water or even ice in the cage itself) .
5. When ventilating the room, it is better to temporarily move the rabbit to another room, placing it in the coolest corner.
6. If you don't have time to completely clean the cage, at least clean the toilet to avoid toxic buildup.
7. Organize walks for the animal around the apartment every day, and in the summer, take it out into the yard more often, only mainly in the evening (these nocturnal animals can sit quietly in a cage all day, becoming more active only with the arrival of night).
8. Do not restrict the animal’s movements, otherwise it will begin to quickly gain weight and soon become obese, which will negatively affect its overall well-being.
9. Long-haired pets will have to be additionally combed and their hair trimmed periodically to prevent it from matting.
10. As they grow, it is necessary to trim the animals' claws, for which special nail clippers are designed.
11. To feed your furry pets, choose only high-quality food, possibly containing probiotic substances (prevent the development of problems with the animal’s stomach). In addition to dry mixtures, it is useful to give rabbits an apple, a pear (in limited quantities) and vegetables prepared in the summer.

Building a rabbit house is not as difficult as many people think, but whatever option you choose, do not forget that this is just the beginning of your mission. For a comfortable life in it, the animal will need appropriate care, the basic rules of which you already know.

Photo gallery

Photo 1. Two-story cage with pets
Photo 2. House with a greenhouse

Photo 3. Outdoor enclosure for rabbits

Photo 4. Place for the rabbit to play

Photo 5. Funny little eared house

Home improvement inside

Before the owner of the house moves into a new home, it is necessary to treat the cages and walls with a disinfectant. And immediately after disinfection, you cannot put a rabbit in this house, since the wood must dry completely. This takes one day.

To preserve the wood longer, you can coat it with water-based paint. Do not use oil paint. After painting, the product must dry for three days.

When using a mesh, choose a natural floor mat - bamboo or cotton. You should not choose carpet or wool, as rabbits can chew the carpet and cause problems in the digestive system. The mat prevents paws from getting stuck in the mesh and getting pododermatitis.

Bedding is used in the cages. Sawdust, soft hay and straw are chosen as bedding. For fluffy breeds, straw is chosen because it retains heat and does not get stuck in the animal's fur.

The cage must have feeding bowls and drinking bowls. The main thing here is to monitor the cleanliness of the water in the drinking bowls. It is also important that animals cannot turn them over. Stores sell bowls that are attached to the cage to prevent them from tipping over.

A rabbit cage with a house is useful if the design does not provide a special private room for the pet to rest and sleep. You can use not only a wooden house, but also a soft one as a place to relax.

You can make your own feeder at home. It comes in the form of a tray in the wall or door. To do this, nail a board to the plywood at an angle of 90 degrees, and another one to it, at an angle of about 110 degrees. The walls are attached to the sides of the resulting tray. Such a tray is inserted into the frame and attached in such a way that it is convenient to pour food through the top, and so that it is convenient for the rabbit to eat the food.

A pregnant rabbit needs a separate cage. In a common house, relatives and constant noise will interfere with a calm birth and feeding of babies. The home for the mother and her brood is a simple single cage. In winter, the container with the offspring is additionally insulated using polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with boards or plywood.

Manufacturing stages

To make a rabbit house, you need to follow this plan:

1. A rectangular piece is cut out of plywood, 70 cm long and 60 cm wide. It is connected to 4 beams 45 cm long. To do this, holes are made in them through which self-tapping screws are screwed.

2.A rectangle of the same size as the previous one is again cut out of plywood. This will be the base of the top floor. A square hole is made in its lower left part through which the rabbit will climb up. Its size depends on the size of the pet.

3.The base of the cage (part No. 1) is connected to the partition (part No. 2) using self-tapping screws.

4. On medium-thick plywood, mark 2 side walls, which have the following parameters: 60x92 cm. Then they are cut out with a saw.

5. The sides are fixed to the frame so that the structure is level.

6. 4 racks are made from the beams, which are attached to the base of the second tier with self-tapping screws. Then the sides are cut out of thick plywood and fixed to the frame. After connecting all the walls and ceiling, the structure is almost ready.

7. A piece measuring 1.2x6 cm is cut out of the board. This will be a threshold that will not allow food and bedding to spill out. It is fixed to the vertical supports below using self-tapping screws.

8.The frame for the door is made of boards. You need to cut out parts that fit the size of the cage. Wooden elements are connected using a stapler. If desired, the structure can be strengthened with steel corners.

9.The door frame is covered with a mesh, which is fixed with a stapler. Then the door is attached to the house on its hinges and a latch is installed.

10. The staircase is made of thin plywood. To do this, cut out a part whose height corresponds to the distance between the floor of the first floor and the ceiling of the second. It is installed at an angle so that the rabbit can climb up. The top of the stairs is covered with pieces of rubber or ice cream sticks. This is necessary so that the animal does not slip while climbing.

11.Furniture legs are attached to the bottom of the house. They must be stable.

Important! After the owner finishes building a house for rabbits, he must treat all surfaces with an antiseptic composition. This is a special water-repellent solution that protects wood from rotting. After applying it, the structure must dry under the sun.

If the structure will be located on the street, then you need to insulate the walls and make a high-quality roof. A pitched roof is suitable for weather protection. It is enough to stretch the roofing material onto the timber sheathing. The roofing material is secured using mounting strips, nails or self-tapping screws. Instead of roofing felt, you can use slate, sheets of metal or tiles.

For additional protection from moisture, a waterproofing film is laid under the roofing material. Then the house will be warmer and more comfortable.

Necessary materials

First of all, you should decide on the size of future cells. The most common option is a double design, which has two separate sections.

There are other types of housing:

• single-section;
• group (for young animals);
• with three sections;
• with mother liquor.

The photo shows standard single-section cages for adult animals.
Creating any structure for keeping rabbits involves step-by-step production of the frame, floor, walls, ceiling and door, followed by assembly. In most cases, wood and metal mesh are used in construction. Therefore, for work you will need the following tools and materials:

Before you start designing, you need to acquire all the necessary tools

The wood should first be sanded and thoroughly sanded, and the ends of the mesh should be securely fastened. All sharp edges must be removed, otherwise the animal may be injured. It makes sense to cover wooden surfaces inside the home with tin to make the enclosure more durable, since rabbits love to gnaw on everything that catches their eye. Thick wooden beams are usually used for the main frame, and the walls and ceiling are made of plywood sheets and mesh. Note that if the rabbits’ home is located outdoors, then the length of the legs of the frame should not be less than 80 cm. For cages placed indoors, 30-centimeter legs will be enough.

If the enclosure will be located in the open air, then it is important to pay special attention to the construction of the roof of the home. Direct sunlight, precipitation and drafts negatively affect the well-being and health of animals. It is not recommended to make a roof out of metal - it gets very hot in the sun, which can lead to heatstroke in a rabbit

It is better to cover the top of the structure with slate

It is not recommended to make a roof out of metal - it gets very hot in the sun, which can lead to heatstroke in a rabbit. It is better to cover the top of the structure with slate.

Tame rabbit

As a rule, domestic rabbits get used to being handled faster than those living outside, since they communicate with people constantly. Plus, you won't have to run out into the cold to feed your rabbits and clean their hutch.

When it comes to your rabbit's health, living indoors should not cause any problems for him, provided that his diet contains enough vitamin D and calcium, and the diet itself is based on hay with the addition of store-bought dry rabbit food. If you have a garden, no one is stopping you from letting your rabbit out for a walk from time to time.

Domestic rabbits are usually tame and affectionate.

What kind of maintenance does the house require?

Before settling pets, their housing is thoroughly treated with various disinfectants, iodine, bromine, and chlorine are useful. Make an aqueous solution with the addition of these products and wash each area of ​​the building. Dry in the sun or near an artificial heat source. After final drying, the surfaces can be opened with water emulsion, stain, or iodine mixture. In summer the cage is kept on the balcony, in winter it is brought indoors. In any case, the place should be with good access to fresh air and no drafts.

Upon completion of all construction procedures with the house, they begin to arrange the cage:

• cover the floor with bedding
• install a litter tray
• place a house
• attach feeders and drinking bowls

You will need a set of toys:

• cardboard tunnel
• cotton ball
• large rope

The pet store offers a variety of items for any animal, rabbits are no exception. Products for games distract attention from the walls; the pet will move the proposed objects and bite with its teeth.

After moving in, daily cleaning is required; the accumulation of dirt will lead to diseases that not everyone has time to get rid of.

For this:

• all surfaces are disinfected with solutions
• feeders are thoroughly cleaned
• water and tray filler are replaced
• play equipment is washed

It is better to immediately abandon synthetic products for treating walls or any objects. Rabbits do not tolerate substances very well, which are difficult to disappear from surfaces. You need to wash with the simplest solutions, and every housewife always has manganese and vinegar.

Ideal sanitary condition in the cage and house is one of the essential conditions for keeping decorative rabbits. Regular medical examinations by a veterinarian will not allow you to miss the disease from an infectious source that has arisen. Care must be effective and rational - for this, livestock specialists have developed rules for caring for decorative creatures.

Breeders should remember that even a specimen of extraordinary beauty is, first of all, a living creature, and if it has been tamed, then it is responsible for decent maintenance, provision of high-quality feed, timely cleaning, and, if necessary, treatment.

Cages for rabbits - on video:

Interior arrangement of the house

After completing the construction work, you can start working on the interior arrangement of the house. You should start by checking the safety of your flooring. The bottom should be covered with a rug made of environmentally friendly materials, such as cotton or bamboo fiber.

It is strictly forbidden to use wool or carpet products as bedding. In this case, the rabbit may die due to disruption of the digestive tract, since it tastes everything that is within its reach.

A thick layer of bedding should be laid on the rug to protect the animals' paws from bedsores. Large straw or sawdust or hay from awnless crops are suitable. The thickness of the bedding for adults should be at least 15 cm.

You should not choose fine straw as bedding for the bottom. In summer, only the floors in the houses of pregnant females need covering.

In the new home, it is necessary to install a feeding trough and drinking bowl so that they cannot become clogged with feces. Special purchased feeders that are attached to the cage will help prevent this outcome. Drinking bowls should be placed low so that the animal can reach them. They can also be placed along the edges to prevent animals from getting their paws into them.

It is worth taking care of the place for the toilet. Usually it is located under the stairs if the house has a two-tier structure.

If the home was equipped for a decorative rabbit, you can also put toys made from natural materials in it. These can be various balls, cardboard tunnels and large ropes. Similar toys are sold at any pet store.

How and what to decorate the house inside

A wooden or cardboard house made according to the scheme described above is just a box with holes, which still needs to be properly decorated from the inside for the pet’s convenience. If you are going to keep decorative rabbits in the house, then the floor of the rabbitry can be covered with bamboo fiber or other dense, but at the same time soft material. In one of the corners it is worth leaving a place for a toilet, covering the surface with moisture-absorbing fabric or simply installing a tray (many domestic rabbits almost immediately understand what exactly it is for). In two-tier structures, space for the toilet can be allocated under the stairs.

Did you know? The mother rabbit feeds her children no more than 10 minutes a day, so not all the cubs (and there are up to 15 or even 20 of them) survive and develop normally.

It is also worth taking care of good fixation of drinkers and feeders, and preparing a place for a hay barn in advance. It is advisable to not raise the drinking bowl too high so that your pet does not have to reach for it. Feeders can be purchased ready-made and simply attached to the walls using the included fasteners.

A piece of large rope, cardboard tunnels, or even cotton balls can serve as toys, although none of them will last for a long time. Sturdier toys specifically designed for little ears can be purchased at a specialized pet store.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Let's take a step-by-step look at whether it is possible to correctly assemble and build a multi-tiered structure for breeding rabbits at home.

To install the frame, the purchased boards must be divided into several parts of the following sizes: 4 pieces (100x30x2250 mm); 12 pieces (50x30x1340 mm); 12 pieces (50x30x540 mm); 72 pieces (25x30x540 mm). From the resulting parts you need to assemble 6 identical frames with dimensions of 1340x600 mm. Installing them is not difficult at all. First, one is made with precise angles, and then it is adapted as a template for creating others. To assemble one frame you need 2 beams with dimensions 50x30x540 mm and 2 beams with dimensions 50x30x1340 mm. The smaller ones are attached between the larger ones using self-tapping screws. Next, 6 frames with the smaller side must be placed on boards with dimensions of 100x30x2250 mm. The distance from one frame to another is 400 mm. It is necessary that 180 mm remain between the tiers, and the first tier must be raised from the ground by 400 mm. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening. Now you need to place two similar ones parallel to these two boards on the other side of the frame

It is important to make sure that they stand perfectly level, which a building level will help you with. Next, we select bars with dimensions of 25x30x540 mm. We use them to construct a floor in the form of a lattice.

The distance between the two bars should be about 20 mm. They are mounted inside each frame, and secured on the outside with self-tapping screws. Each of the tiers must be divided into two different cells. The partition will be a hay box that resembles the letter V. It is necessary to lay down food for rabbits: hay or grass. The frame of the hay barn needs to be stitched inside along these installed bars using a mesh. If it is planned to arrange a queen cell on one of the tiers, then the floor must be level, without gaps, as mentioned above. A sheet of plywood will serve as a barrier from the main part of the cage to the queen cell, but it is important to ensure that this “door” opens freely, which can be done by installing additional bars. The entrance from the rabbitry to the queen cell can be in the shape of a circle or semicircle, but it is important that it is located 100 mm above the floor so that the cubs cannot move into the cage until they learn to overcome such a barrier themselves. In the queen cell you need to make a bottom from a plywood sheet, but do not nail it to the bars, so that you can then freely remove it and dry it before the next breeding. It is necessary to make a hinged door on top, securing it to the hinges and providing a lock in the form of a latch. Next, in accordance with the remaining openings, it is necessary to make frames for caged doors, constructing them according to the same principle as frames for tiers. The mesh can be secured to any frame using a construction stapler. The choice of the side where the hinges for the doors will be attached depends solely on the preferences of the owner and the conditions in a particular room. You can install them from the bottom, and the door will be hinged, or you can mount them on the side, and it will be hinged. Depending on the external conditions, the cage frame can be lined with metal mesh or plywood. It is extremely important to provide a system of ebb tides so that waste from the tiers located above does not reach the animals living below. To do this, you need to attach a metal sheet with sides bent by 100 mm to the front lower part of the tier. The ebb is located at an angle and extends beyond the cage by approximately 30 mm. Consequently, it turns out that all waste is sent back, which allows easy access to the front side of the cells.

This construction option is quite simple, construction will not take much time. The result will be an excellent single-tier or multi-tier (as you wish) cage.

Photo report on the manufacture of a cage for a rabbitry from a galvanized profile

This option is suitable for those regions where wood is expensive or for those who have a lot of profile remains after construction/repair. When making cages, the dimensions are adjusted to the existing molding - small deviations in one direction or another are acceptable, but the rabbits should have room in the cage.

Frame assembled

This cage was built for a female with rabbits up to 20 days old. It consists of two sections. The main part is 55*75*55 cm, the mother liquor is 35*55*30 cm. The racks have a reinforced profile, the crossbars are used for normal work - as usual with drywall - the pieces are fastened with self-tapping screws (fleas).

Example of profile fastening

The floor in the main part is made of a block 2 cm thick and 5 cm wide. The planks are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. The screws must be screwed in so that they can be easily unscrewed - if (or rather, when) the strip is chewed, it will be easy to replace with a new one.

The floor in the main part is cracked

In the queen cell the floor is solid, without cracks. If in winter you are not sure that your rabbitry will be warm enough, it is better to make a double floor in this part and fill the gap with insulation - even expanded clay. In this case, even with a sharp cold snap, the babies will not freeze - their mother usually warms them from above. If it is warm from below, they will not get sick.

The mother liquor is made without cracks

The height of the queen cell is 20 cm lower than the main cell. From the inside, in the cage, there is a shelf on which the rabbit will escape from the annoying little ones.

Everything is covered with plywood, view from the side of the cage

To prevent the external joints of the plywood from being chewed, we cover them with perforated metal corners. You just need to look for the ones that are thicker. We cut the edges of the corners at 45° so that they do not ride up or stick out.

All that remains is the covering of the main walls and the manufacture of the door. This is what should happen as a result

Collection rules

In order for the animals to be as comfortable as possible in the manufactured house, it is necessary to follow certain rules during construction. It is advisable not to violate them:

1. The protruding parts must be covered with tin.
2. It is advisable to use slate for the roof.
3. Under no circumstances should you use varnish or antiseptic for impregnation; rabbits will not like the smell.
4. An extremely durable wooden beam is used as a frame.
5. The back walls can be made of plywood.

When the drawing is completed and the materials are prepared, you can proceed to the actual construction. First of all, the frame is assembled, and then the mesh floor is laid.

If outdoor maintenance is planned, then the floor is insulated and a removable tray is installed underneath it. This is necessary for cleaning. Next, you can install the back wall, which is made of plywood. It is worth noting that it must be lower than the front one. The side walls can also be made from a sheet of plywood.

If the cage is planned to be double, then a hay barn is installed in the middle. The last wall is made of mesh, with a door. If the cage will always be outdoors, then it is necessary to properly insulate the sleeping compartment. It is advisable to make the roof at an angle and then cover it with slate. This is necessary to prevent water from accumulating on the surface after rain.

The contents of the cages may differ; it is chosen depending on what kind of rabbits will live there. For small rabbits, you need to install special queen cells, as well as nesting compartments. If there is group keeping, then a well-heated nesting room should also be arranged.

Before starting assembly, you need to decide on the place where the structure will stand. The place should be comfortable and protected from draft winds. In no case should you place a house for a rabbit on the south side, since there the animal will suffer greatly from the extreme heat. If the house will stand on the street all year, then the floor must be made in such a way that it slides out like a pallet, with a lathing of slats placed on top of it.

If you take into account all these nuances, then making a cage for a rabbit will not be difficult.

Carrying out disinfection treatments of cells (care)

For a long time, harmful bacteria can live in bedding materials and wooden cage structures, as well as in food and water containers and equipment. If you regularly clean the room, this will give only 40% success in destroying microorganisms: the remaining ones will find a new refuge in a hard-to-reach place.

With the development of various diseases, even if it is diagnosed on time and treatment has begun, all these measures may not lead to a positive result until all cages, objects in it and inventory tools are completely disinfected.

Treating cells with a blowtorch

Most experienced rabbit breeders agree that rabbit cages must be disinfected once every 6 months, regardless of the number of animals kept on the farm. The best time for such work is spring or autumn. Unscheduled processing can be carried out at any time if there are prerequisites for this.

It is mandatory to carry out disinfection in the following cases:

• placing young animals with adults;
• upcoming birth;
• eliminated infectious or other disease.

Most viruses and bacteria are very viable, and to successfully fight people often resort to radical methods:

1. Treatment with chemicals. This includes strong antiseptics. Used for external and internal parts of cells, they must be washed off with water.
2. Aerosols containing chemical components. Similar to the method already described.
3. Burning with fire. A blowtorch or gas torch is used.
4. Car wash and using Karcher.
5. Construction hairdryer.

Disinfection can begin only after the premises have been thoroughly cleaned. If you follow the following sequence, the work will not seem so difficult and impossible:

Transplantation of animals to another room or temporary cages. The cage is cleared of feeders, drinkers and other removable parts. Using equipment, bedding materials are removed, stored in plastic bags and then disposed of. It is imperative to inspect the cage for damage, holes in the walls, ceiling or floor. If there is damage, it must be repaired.

Using hot water, all contaminants are removed; it is important to thoroughly clean dried feces and food particles. If necessary, use a stiff brush. The cage is washed both inside and outside, then detergents can be used

After washing off such products, the cage should be dried in a room with good lighting. All components of the drinking bowl and feeder removed from the cage are also thoroughly washed; it is important not to forget about the inventory tools. While everything is drying, general cleaning is carried out in the room where the cages were. Hot water and detergents are also used here

The cage is washed both inside and outside, then detergents can be used. After washing off such products, the cage should be dried in a room with good lighting.

All components of the drinking bowl and feeder removed from the cage are also thoroughly washed; it is important not to forget about the inventory tools. While everything is drying, general cleaning is carried out in the room where the cages were

Hot water and detergents are also used here.

We invite you to join our group on VKontakte or Odnoklassniki, where new articles are published, as well as news for gardeners and livestock farmers.

Making an aviary with your own hands

Despite the disadvantages of keeping rabbits in enclosures, this method is popular among breeders.

You can make a multi-level rabbit enclosure from wire mesh. This house is suitable for keeping in an apartment or other heated room.

To make a pen for rabbits with your own hands at home, you need to acquire the necessary tools and materials. Next you need to follow the instructions. And after completion of construction work, begin the arrangement of a new home.

Necessary materials

To build a simple enclosure for rabbits, you need to purchase the following materials:

• wire mesh – 30 panels (2 packs);
• ties for fastening electrical wires (100 mm) – 2 packs;
• sheets of plywood 70 cm wide, 33 cm long (for the lower level) and 61 cm (for the upper level);
• furniture dowel with a diameter of 3.5 cm – 4 pcs.;
• spring clips – 3 pcs.

The only tools you will need are an electric saw for cutting out parts from plywood.

Kinds

Rabbits can be raised in different types of buildings, each of which has its own characteristics, disadvantages and advantages. A rabbit mini-farm can be open (street) or closed (located, for example, in a barn). At the same time, the first option is especially popular, as it allows you to conveniently place more than 100 individuals on the street. Outdoor structures are much easier to clean and maintain, they are stable and reliable. Cages can be installed in several tiers, over which a canopy is attached to protect them from precipitation and sunlight.

In turn, outdoor and indoor rabbitries are divided into the following structures:

with one section (single-, multi-tier);

cells with two sections (most often built in 2 or 3 tiers);

In addition, all-wire two-tier and three-tier cages, Mikhailov mini-farms with self-cleaning and Zolotukhin cages are also in great demand among rabbit breeders. Two-tier Mikhailov cages have the form of a frame stand, upper and lower shelves.

The simplest and most accessible to manufacture independently is the two-section design. It is easy to maintain and saves space. To do this, it is placed in several rows. And also, every rabbit owner must have a double rabbitry with a queen cell - it is used for breeding and keeping young animals until they reach the required age.

Selection of design type

Check out the photos of finished rabbit hutches and see how they are structured.

Considering the number of pets, calculate how many cages you will need and how best to install them. In addition to single and two-section, rabbitry can be:

• Single-tier;
• Multi-tiered;
• With an aviary;
• In the form of an extension to the main room.

Having a clear plan, start building a drawing of the rabbitry. Take into account every little detail: size, location of doors, feeders and drinkers, taking into account the needs of each pet.

Feeders and drinkers

Wood is usually used to make them. Plastic can be toxic, so it is safer to use classic material.

Place feeders along the long side of the rabbitry. Be careful with the size so that there is no crowding during feeding. Their height is such that animals cannot steal food.

The dimensions of the feeder in the compartment of the female with the rabbits are at least 40x4x4 cm. The presence of retractable compartments will be relevant.

Between the sections of the rabbit house, provide gaps through which it is convenient to feed hay and feed. Through a nursery with an external door, you can offer roughage to the animals.

Attach the drinking bowl to the side wall. A “cheap and cheerful” but effective option is a bowl and a water bottle inverted into it. A small hole is made in the lid. This way, as you drink from the bowl, the drinking bowl will be replenished from the bottle.

Making a rabbitry with your own hands is not difficult. Look at the photo - these could be real cozy houses. If animals feel good without experiencing discomfort, they will grow and reproduce faster, which is what any breeder strives for.

Sources:

https://pets2.me/bok/1308-kak-sdelat-domik-dlya-krolika-svoimi-rukami.html https://fermoved.ru/kroliki/domiki.html https://landshaftdizajn.ru/krolchatnik- svoimi-rukami/

Insulation

Rabbits feel comfortable at a temperature of 10-20º. Therefore, for the winter you need to either move the house standing in the fresh air to a warm place, or insulate the existing home.

Cover the door with plywood. It’s even better if you glaze it - this option will allow the animals to receive more sunlight. Add a layer of hay to the wooden flooring. The walls can be insulated with ordinary polystyrene foam.

An alternative approach is to build a special shed with heating. Be sure to make a foundation, and the room itself can be wooden or brick. The main thing is that there are no drafts anywhere. The doors should also fit tightly in their frames and protect the shed from the cold. On the south side, arrange a walking area.

For a summer residence, the second option for organizing a rabbitry is more convenient.

Beginning of work

Between the idea of ​​building a rabbitry and its implementation stands the most important design stage. You must study the features of keeping long-eared pets and make the house as comfortable as possible for both the animals and the person who will look after them. Always remember that rabbits are living beings with their own needs.

Having decided on the breed, plan further livestock. The size of the animals, their gender and age make adjustments to the design of the rabbitry. When starting construction, it is better to provide for the possibility of further expansion.

Choose your location carefully. Try to find an area away from sources of loud noise. Give preference to the shady side and elevations: in summer the sun will not cause discomfort to the animals, and in rainy weather water will not flow into the rabbitry. Under no circumstances should it be adjacent to a compost pit.

Nothing should block access to the cells. They themselves should be as spacious and comfortable as possible.

Size selection

The size of the rabbitry is calculated based on the number, sex and age of its inhabitants.

Adults live in individual cages measuring 100x60 cm. It is important for sexually mature males to have more space, so the parameters can be increased for them.

A mother rabbit needs a cage with dimensions of at least 170x100x60 cm. It is good if her house is in the shade. Install it at a height of 70-80 cm from the ground.

A large pet weighing more than 5 kg requires enough space - at least 130x70x40 cm. The roof can be made sloping by reducing the height of the rear wall by 10-15 cm.

Young animals are kept in groups of up to 20 animals. Groups of 3-5 baby rabbits live in separate buildings for up to 3 months; older animals are kept in batches of up to 4 individuals. The area of ​​the cells should be 50x50x35.

Of course, you have the right to change these parameters to suit your needs, but try not to make the cells smaller. For normal functioning, rabbits, like any living creature, need space.